Kirtland Sites — Fascinating for the Whole Family
By Becky Cardon Smith
print version

click here to find out more about books by Becky Cardon Smith

Here is a list of church-related sites you may want to visit in the Kirtland area, together with all the information you’ll need to plan a stellar Kirtland vacation.  Next week we will end the Kirtland series with a list of things to do that are not church-related, but that may be of interest to you and your family.

• LDS Visitors’ Center – Constructed in the style of a gristmill, the visitors’ center is a wonderful place to begin your tour. Notice the photo gallery with pictures of early Kirtland, see the large mural of the Kirtland Temple being built, enjoy a 24 minute film entitled “Joseph Smith’s Kirtland,” and view some of the more recently restored sites (sawmill, ashery, inn, etc.) through a glassed-in observation room. This area is excellent for those limited in their walking or on stormy days. Be sure to pick up several informative handouts including one entitled “Historic Kirtland.” Open Monday thru Saturday 9:00 a.m.–7:00 p.m. and Sunday 11:30 a.m.–7:00 p.m. (closes at 5:00 p.m. in winter). Free guided walking tours of the sites in this immediate area are provided daily until dusk. Restrooms are located here. Allow 90 minutes or more to stop at the visitors’ center and to take the walking tour of the nearby sites, now referred to as Historic Kirtland Village. (If time is short, consider taking a tour of the Kirtland Temple first. It closes at 5:00 p.m.) The visitors’ center is located at 7800 Kirtland-Chardon Road, near the intersection of Routes 306 and 615. 440-256-9805.

• Schoolhouse – The rebuilt schoolhouse is located on the same site where the original 1819 schoolhouse once stood. Learn more about the education process in the early 1800s and compare it to our education system today. Not only a school, the building was also used for city council meetings, as a poll during elections, and as a church. Early Saints met here on Sundays for sacrament meetings. Joseph was probably referring to this building when he recorded, “In the evening I preached in the school house, to a crowded congregation” (HC 2:301). You will find the building in front of the entrance to the LDS visitors’ center.

• Sawmill – Don’t forget to stop at the rebuilt sawmill located behind the visitors’ center. Joel Hills Johnson built the original water-powered sawmill in 1833. Lumber cut at the mill was used in the construction of homes, businesses, and the Kirtland Temple. The sawmill also provided much-needed employment for new converts moving into the area. 

click to enlarge

Ashery and sawmill

• Ashery – Rebuilt on the original site, the ashery was important for both practical and financial reasons. Newel K. Whitney originally owned the ashery and the Saints would sometimes bring their ashes to his store in trade for goods. These ashes were mixed with water and processed into a very marketable and desirable product called potash. While you are here: discover the purpose of the ashery, find out why it was so important to the Saints, discover why hardwood trees made the best ashes, learn about the process, and be surprised at what products were made from the end result. The ashery is located next to the sawmill and is the first of its kind to be restored in North America.

• Tannery – The home located to the right of the Newel K. Whitney store is built on the foundation of what was once Sidney Rigdon’s tannery. Though he never used it as his residence, Sidney Rigdon was given stewardship over the tannery under the United Order in 1833 (D&C 104:20). The home is owned by the Church and is used for housing. It is not available for tours. 

click to enlarge

The Whitney Store was home to the Bishop’s Storehouse.

• Newel K. Whitney & Co. Store – In 1988, President Ronald Reagan awarded the President’s Historic Preservation Award to the Church for its authentic restoration of the store. Drawing on Brother Whitney’s meticulous records, every effort has been made to stock the shelves with items that would have been sold in the store during the 1830s. There are several things to notice in the main room that served as a store, post office, and social gathering place. Notice the uniquely designed tin lanterns hanging above your head. At night, people could recognize someone from afar by the personalized pattern of light emitted from the lantern he carried. Look closely at the shoes and boots sitting on the shelves and you will notice that there is no right or left foot. Though uncomfortable by today’s standard, the shoes could be worn on either foot for longer and more even wear. Also notice the straw and silk bonnets. The peach lining of the hat helped highlight a woman’s skin, giving her a “peaches and cream” complexion. The southeast room served as the work and trade room as well as the Bishop’s Storehouse. Bartering was a common practice in those days and goods brought in for trade were stored here. Here too was the beginning of our modern day welfare system. In those days, the Saints would hold a fast and testimony meeting on the first Thursday of each month. Items donated from their fast were received at the store and in turn given out to those in need. The Prophet and his young family lived here for about 18 months from 1832 to 1834. In the kitchen, you can almost imagine Joseph, Emma, their surviving adopted twin daughter, and their tiny son, Joseph III, seated at the table.  Notice the swing out fireplace crane holding the kettle. Infections resulting from serious burns were the second leading cause of death for women in those days. This extended arm helped Emma keep her long dress away from the flames of the fire. Also notice the herbs drying above the fireplace. This was a convenient location when the dinner meal needed a “pinch” of spice. Also of interest is the courting lantern on the mantle. When the wick burned out, the young man knew it was time to go home (more favored suitors were given longer wicks). Going upstairs, the northwest room was Joseph and Emma’s bedroom. On the original tulip wood floor you can still see some of the original buttermilk paint (pigment mixed with buttermilk). Joseph III was born in this room. He later became president of the RLDS Church (now Community of Christ). Also, upstairs are two very significant rooms. The northeast room housed the School of the Prophets from January to April of 1833. Remarkable spiritual manifestations, doctrinal discussions, and revelations were received in this room. Joseph used the southeast corner room to run the affairs of the Church. The table in this room is believed to be the Prophet’s original table. Here too, the Prophet received the revelation known as the Word of Wisdom (D&C 89). Joseph also worked here on the inspired revision of the Bible. The many revelations Joseph received in the Whitney store are found in D&C 84-98, 101, and possibly 78. 

• Whitney & Gilbert Livery Stable Site – Across the street from the Whitney Store is a sign indicating the former site of the Whitney & Gilbert livery stable. From 1829 to 1831, Newel K. Whitney and his friend and business partner Algernon Sidney Gilbert had a livery stable located here. Newel and Sidney both joined the Church in the winter of 1830. In June of 1831, Sidney journeyed with the Prophet Joseph to Independence (D&C 53). There he established a store as commanded in D&C 57:8. In the fall of 1833, mobs ransacked Brother Gilbert’s store and he and his family were driven from Jackson County, as were the other Saints. Sidney and his family relocated near Rush Creek, just east of Liberty. In June of 1834, five members of Zion’s Camp who were stricken with cholera died at Brother Gilbert’s home. On June 29, Brother Gilbert also passed away from this same disease (HC 2:18). His name is listed on the Zion’s Camp Memorial located in Independence, Missouri.      

• Saints of Kirtland – Across the street from the Whitney Store is the Saints of Kirtland office. Be sure to stop in if you had an ancestor who lived in the Kirtland area between 1830–1838. Here they will help you locate information on family members, discover property locations, and other helpful facts. You can even fax (440-256-2692) the name, birth date, etc. of your ancestor and they will try to have the information ready upon your arrival. (Be sure to indicate when you will be arriving.) The office has the same summer hours as the visitors’ center but is only open from noon – 4:00 in winter. For additional questions, call 440-256-3413.

• Newel K. Whitney Home – The home of Newel and Elizabeth Ann Whitney has been restored to its original condition both inside and out. After arriving from New York, Emma and Joseph lived here with the Whitney family for a few weeks (HC 1:145). During their stay, Joseph healed Elsa Johnson’s arm, resulting in several conversions, and the Prophet received a revelation that Edward Partridge should be the first bishop of the Church (D&C 41:11). Other revelations received here are recorded in D&C 42–44. It is also likely that Joseph Smith received D&C 70 and 72 here. 

click to enlarge

Newel K. Whitney home

• Whitney Red Store Site – Just to the right of the Whitney home is a sign indicating the former site of the Whitney Red Store. In the early 1820s, Newel K. Whitney built a store here. The building also included living quarters for his family. By 1827, Brother Whitney had moved his business across the street into the larger store and had also relocated his family to a new home. Following their move, Newel’s business partner Algernon Sidney Gilbert and his family probably lived here from 1827 until 1831.

• John Johnson Inn – This was the first brick building in Kirtland. Originally built by Peter French as an inn, it was ideally located on a small piece of land at the intersection of Chillicothe and Kirtland-Chardon Roads. The Church purchased the inn from Peter in 1833 and John Johnson was later given stewardship of the building under the Kirtland United Order (D&C 104:34). After the printing press in Independence, Missouri was destroyed, a temporary printing office was set up here which produced the Evening & Morning Star. The Prophet recorded that ancient Egyptian mummies and records were exhibited here (HC 2:396). Joseph had purchased the four mummies and two rolls of papyrus from Michael Chandler in 1835. On May 4, 1835, the Twelve Apostles departed from the Johnson Inn on their first mission (HC 2:219) The reconstructed inn, located on the original foundation, now features a small theater, exhibits on the legacy of Kirtland, a topographical model of Kirtland in the 1830s, and a hands-on computer station where visitors can check for ancestors who once lived here. Both the Whitney home and the Johnson Inn are part of the walking tour taken from the LDS visitors’ center. 

• Warren Parrish Home – The red home located just north of the Whitney Store once belonged to Warren Parrish. Warren was a member of Zion’s Camp, went on several missions, served as clerk and scribe for Joseph, and was very involved with the Kirtland Safety Society. Warren was accused of embezzling $25,000 from the Kirtland Safety Society and he eventually left the Church. He and Wilford Woodruff were once missionary companions. Wilford lived in this home for a time both before his marriage to Phoebe Carter and again after their marriage. The home is owned by the Church and used for housing. It is not available for tours.

• John F. Boynton Home – This small home once belonged to John Boynton, one of the original Twelve Apostles. Though John eventually left the Church, he later visited Brigham Young in Utah. The home is located just north of the Parrish home. It is owned by the Church but used for housing and is not available for tours.

click to enlarge

Isaac Morley Farm

• Isaac Morley Farm –This former 260-acre farm was the home of a religious group led by Isaac Morley called “The Family.” After Isaac’s baptism in 1830, many of the early arriving Saints temporarily lived on his farm. Joseph and Emma lived here with the Morleys from March thru September of 1831 before moving to Hiram. Many significant events occurred at this farm during their six-month stay. On April 30, Emma gave birth to twins, Thaddeus and Louisa, who died after three hours. Nine days later, Joseph and Emma received and adopted the Murdock twins, Joseph and Julia, whose mother had died while giving birth (HC 1:260). The fourth conference of the Church was held at the Morley farm from June 3 to June 6. At least one session took place in a small log schoolhouse located atop the hill. During this meeting, the Prophet Joseph “saw the heavens open and Jesus Christ sitting on the right hand of the Father” (CHFT p. 100). The first high priests in this dispensation were called and ordained at this conference (HC 1:175-176). Three years later, in 1834, Joseph prophesied in this schoolhouse that the Church would fill the world and that the Saints would go to the Rocky Mountains. Revelations Joseph received here are recorded in D&C 45 –50, 52-56, 63 and 64. Joseph worked on the inspired translation of the Bible while living on the farm. Isaac Morley and his wife, Lucy, remained faithful to the end. They followed the Prophet to Far West and then to Nauvoo. After the Saints’ expulsion from Nauvoo, and while living in Winter Quarters, Lucy died from typhoid fever in 1847. Isaac led a company west to the Salt Lake Valley. First settling in Bountiful, he later moved to southern Utah. He died at the age of 79 in 1865, and is buried in Manti, Utah. Though Lucy and Isaac’s home and the log schoolhouse are no longer there, don’t miss the missionary guided tour of this special area.  Tours at the Morley farm are given May thru October, from Monday thru Saturday 9:00 a.m.–dusk and Sunday 11:30 a.m.–dusk (check winter hours). To locate the farm, turn left as you leave the LDS visitors’ center onto Kirkland/Chardon Road. Turn right onto Chillicothe Road (Route 615). The farm will be on your left, just one mile from the visitors’ center at 8605 Chillicothe Road. 440-256-2694.

• Kirtland Temple – The temple is owned by the Community of Christ (formerly RLDS). Tours of the Kirtland Temple begin next door at their visitors’ center. Allow one hour to view a brief video and take a tour of the temple. As you enter the Kirtland Temple, notice the original railing on the left side of the foyer, the large arched window that provides light for the first two floors, and the dangling rope which travels up through four trap doors until it reaches the bell tower located atop the temple. In the assembly rooms located on the first two floors, notice the choir lofts, the four-tiered Melchizedek Priesthood pulpits located on the west end, and the Aaronic Priesthood pulpits on the east end. (The bottom tiered pulpits have a drop-leaf table which was used for the sacrament.) Rollers in the ceilings held curtains which could divide the rooms into four sections (although the curtains were never installed on the second floor). The benches in the assembly rooms could be moved to allow seating in either direction. The five rooms located on the third floor were used for offices, ordinances, and schooling for the early Saints. Joseph used the far west room, also known as The President’s Room, as his office. Many significant events took place in this room including: translation work, the teaching of Hebrew, and several revelations received including the vision now recorded in D&C 137 concerning the doctrine of salvation. During this revelation, the Prophet saw his beloved deceased brother, Alvin, in the celestial kingdom. (Read about this sacred experience in HC 2:379-382.) Inside the visitors’ center, notice part of the original temple weathervane, a portion of the original stucco, as well as other early artifacts and pictures from the 1830s. Items you may wish to purchase include copies of the Kirtland Bank Notes ($2.00), a copy of the original hymnal that Emma compiled ($16.95), maps, small souvenir items, tin ware, reprints of selected items, photos, and several books about early Kirtland (including this book). The Kirtland Temple is open March thru October, Monday thru Saturday 9:00 a.m.–5:00 p.m. and Sunday 1:00 p.m.–5:00 p.m. In November & December, open Monday thru Saturday 10:00 a.m.– 4:00 p.m. and Sunday 1:00 p.m.–4:00 p.m. Open on weekends only in January & February (same weekend hours as in November & December). Closed on major holidays. Admission to tour the Kirtland Temple is $2/per person. The temple is located one mile south of I-90 at 9020 Chillicothe Road (Route 306). 440-256-3318.

• Printing Office/Schoolhouse Site – Just behind or west of the temple (now part of the parking lot), stood a two-story building. The first floor was used as a schoolhouse and the top floor served as an office for the First Presidency, a meetinghouse, and a printing office. After the building was dedicated in 1834, the School of the Prophets and Elders was moved here from the Whitney Store (HC 2:169-171). The men worked on religious studies and also on grammar and penmanship. During a conference held here, the Twelve Apostles were called and ordained (HC 2:180-200). Joseph also received D&C 134, and probably D&C 107 here. After the press was destroyed in Independence, a new press, brought by Oliver Cowdery, was used to print the first edition of the Doctrine and Covenants (which included “Lectures on Faith”), the second edition of the Book of Mormon, the Evening and Morning Star newspaper, and the hymnal Emma was told to compile in D&C 25. The building was destroyed by fire in January of 1838.

• Kirtland Safety Society Bank Site – The Safety Society building once stood south of the temple (but before the visitors’ center) where the circular walkway is presently located. On January 2, 1837, the Kirtland Safety Society was organized with Sidney Rigdon serving as chairman and Warren Parrish as secretary (HC 2:470). But soon after the first notes were issued, the business began to struggle, and ultimately had to close in November of that same year. Its failure can be attributed to several things including: a nationwide panic in May of 1837 which brought the collapse of many other banks, efforts by enemies of the Church to destroy confidence in the business, and some individual acts of dishonesty. Though the Prophet supported the Safety Society at first, business decisions were made against his advice and some Church members chose not to follow his counsel (HC 2:487). The collapse of the Kirtland Safety Society fueled the anger of some of the Saints. They “spoke against the Prophet and accused him of being responsible for all of their problems” (CHFT p.173). Persecution of the Prophet escalated to the point that Joseph was no longer safe in Kirtland (HC 3:1). (For additional information, see “Kirtland Economy” in Encyclopedia of Mormonism.)   

• North Kirtland Cemetery – Many notable Saints are buried in the small cemetery located directly north of the Kirtland Temple. Hyrum’s first wife, Jerusha Smith, died in 1837 just 11 days after giving birth to their sixth child (HC 2:519). Hyrum was in Far West, Missouri at the time of her death. Also buried here is Mary Duty Smith, Joseph’s paternal grandmother. Mary and her husband Asael Smith were living in Tunbridge, Vermont at the time their son, Joseph Sr., met his future wife. In May 1836, Mary, then widowed and 93 years old, made the difficult trip to Kirtland for a joyful reunion with her extended family, but died just ten days after her arrival on May 27, 1836 (HC 2:443). Though the exact location of their graves is not known, a marker located in the middle of the cemetery honors these women. Others buried here include John Johnson, Oliver Granger (read D&C 117:12), and William Cowdery (Oliver’s father). Joseph and Emma’s twins (Louisa and Thaddeus) and Parley Pratt’s first wife (Thankful Halsey Pratt) are also probably buried here, though the exact locations are unknown. You can read about a blessing Thankful received, promising the birth of a son, and about her death in Autobiography of Parley P. Pratt pages 130, 166-167.

• Joseph Smith Home – Joseph and Emma moved from the Newel K. Whitney Store into this home in February 1834. The Prophet received revelations here that are recorded in D&C 102, 103, and 108 and possibly 104 and 106. Joseph received many visitors in this home and also conducted Church business here (possibly organizing Zion’s Camp). Here too, the Egyptian Mummies and papyri were displayed and translation began on the Book of Abraham. For a brief time, Joseph also had a variety store located across the street. It is quite likely that his son, Frederick G. Williams Smith, was born here on June 20, 1836. Less than two years later, the Prophet received a revelation (unpublished) on January 12, 1838, telling Joseph and Sidney Rigdon to flee for their safety (HC 3:1). They left that night and their families joined them a few days later. Emma was expecting a child at the time, making the long and arduous journey to Far West, Missouri even more difficult. The home is located at 8980 Chillicothe Road (front and possibly middle section of the home are original). It is owned by the Community of Christ and not available for tours. 

• Sidney Rigdon Home – Sidney’s home (greatly remodeled) is located across the street and just south from the Kirtland Temple. Sidney was a prominent minister in nearby Mentor when he was introduced to the gospel by Oliver Cowdery, Parley P. Pratt, and the other missionaries traveling from New York to teach the Lamanites (D&C 28:8). Sidney was baptized in 1830, as were many of those in his congregation. He later served as Joseph Smith’s first counselor. The home is owned by the Community of Christ and is not available for tours. 

• Hyrum Smith Home – The Prophet’s beloved older brother was one of the Eight Witnesses of the Book of Mormon. He was a member of Zion’s Camp, and served as a counselor in the First Presidency. While living in Nauvoo, Hyrum was called as patriarch to the Church and told to “bear record of the things which I shall show unto him” (D&C 124:96). The home is located south of the Kirtland Temple and across the street from a Sunoco gas station at 9097 Chillicothe Road. (The newer front part of the home stands on the original foundation while the back part of the home is the original.) The home is owned by the LDS Church and is currently used as housing for missionaries and not available for tours.  

• John Johnson Home – John Johnson and his family moved into this home after moving from their farm in nearby Hiram. Here in 1835, the Prophet performed the marriage of John F. Boynton (then serving as an apostle) and his bride. John Johnson and his wife were very supportive of Joseph and the Church. For a time, Joseph and Emma lived with the Johnson family on their Hiram farm. John’s generous monetary contributions allowed the Church to purchase much land (including the Kirtland Temple property). Unfortunately, John and his son, Lyman, ultimately left the Church. The home is located southwest of the North Kirtland Cemetery at 7762 Maple Street. It is privately owned and not available for tours.

• Vinson Knight & William Marks Home – This home was owned (at different times) by both William Marks and Vinson Knight. William Marks was baptized in New York in 1835. He once served as president of the Kirtland Stake and later in the same position in the Nauvoo Stake. He left the Church and later assisted in starting the RLDS Church (now Community of Christ), serving as a counselor to Joseph Smith III. Vinson Knight served as counselor in a bishopric in Kirtland, and was called as acting bishop in Adam-ondi-Ahman (until the arrival of Bishop Newel K. Whitney). Brother Knight died at Nauvoo in 1842. The home is located on the northwest corner at 7741 Joseph Street. (Joseph Street is located almost directly across the road from the Hyrum Smith home.) The home is owned by the Community of Christ and is not available for tours.

• William Miller Home – William was baptized at Kirtland in 1834. He followed the Prophet from Kirtland to Missouri, and then on to Nauvoo. Brother Miller once left the Nauvoo Temple dressed as Brigham Young and was arrested by the waiting marshals. After arriving in Carthage, they eventually discovered they had captured a “bogus Brigham.” While living in Winter Quarters during the winter of 1846, Brother Miller and his family lived in a dugout. After their arrival in Utah, William played an active part in the settlements of both Provo and Springville. He served a mission to England, was a probate judge in Utah County, and later served as president of the Utah Stake (serving as a bishop in Provo at the same time). William Miller died in 1875 in Provo, Utah. His home (greatly remodeled) is located at 7799 Joseph Street (2^nd home on your right). It is owned by the Community of Christ and is not available for tours.

• Temple Stone Quarry – This area was once known as the Stannard Stone Quarry. It is still possible to see the old drill marks in what is now called the Chapin Forest Reserve Park. To quarry the stone, workmen drilled a series of holes in the sandstone, placed a wedge in each hole, and split the stone by striking the wedge with a hammer. On June 5, 1833, the Prophet’s cousin, George A. Smith, hauled the first load of stone from the quarry and Hyrum and Reynolds Cahoon began digging trenches for the temple walls (HC 1:353). The park is located just 2 miles south of the Kirtland Temple and makes a great recreational stop for families with picnic tables, hiking trails, and benches near a small pond. Admission to the park is free and it is open daily from sunrise to sunset. To find the quarry, head south on Chillicothe Road (also known as Route 306); the entrance will be about 2 miles from the temple on your right. Turn right after entering and park. The gravel path to your right (north) will lead you to a wooden walkway along the old quarry.

• Fairport Harbor Lakefront Park – This is a both a Church historical site and a fun recreational stop. Located about 12 miles northeast of Kirtland, Fairport Harbor was an important port for early Church members. Many of the Saints coming from New York traveled by flatboat on the Erie Canal to Buffalo, continued by ship to Fairport, and then rode/walked the 12 miles from the harbor to Kirtland. Arriving Saints included Lucy Mack Smith with her children (HJS p.206), the Colesville Saints, and Joseph’s maternal grandmother – Mary Duty Smith (HC 2:442). Those departing on missions also used this port. In 1835, the Twelve Apostles sailed from Fairport on a mission to the eastern states (HC 2:222). Heber C. Kimball, Orson Hyde, and others also left from this port en route to their missions to England in 1837 (HC 2:493). The park is open year round from dawn to dusk. Admission: $3.00/car. The park includes a beach with lifeguard on duty from Memorial Day thru Labor Day, a picnic area w/ barbeque grills, playground, concession stands and restrooms. Overlooking the lake is a lighthouse with 76 steps up to the top for a great view (rebuilt and not the original lighthouse which greeted early Saints to Kirtland). Attached to the lighthouse is a maritime museum, open from Memorial Day thru Labor Day on Wed., Sat., and Sunday 1:00 p.m.–6:00 p.m. Admission: adults/$3 and children/$1. Located at 301 Huntington Beach Drive. Take 306 N. to Hwy 2 and go east to the Fairport Harbor and Richmond Road exit. After exiting, head north until the road makes a “Y”; stay to the right going up a hill and to the harbor. The entrance is on your right. Call 440-639-9972 or visit www.lakevisit.com.